Why You Should Explore Armagnac

Armagnac is a grape brandy that’s produced within the Armagnac area of the French province of Gascony. This area was the primary in France to start distilling grape-based spirits, making Armagnac the oldest brandy nonetheless produced in France and predating its better-known cousins in Cognac by a number of centuries. The primary written reference to Armagnac was in 1310, nicely after its manufacturing had begun. Comparable written references to Cognac didn’t seem till the mid-to-late fifteenth century.

Not like Cognac, whose entry to the port of La Rochelle allowed producers to ship their Cognac everywhere in the world, producers in land-locked Gascony had restricted export choices. Armagnac remained a small, native trade; little modified through the years. The distinction in export prowess nonetheless holds true at this time. Roughly 98% of Cognac manufacturing is exported abroad, whereas 50% of Armagnac manufacturing remains to be consumed in France. Manufacturing clever, Cognac produced round 250 million bottles in 2020 versus 5 million bottles of Armagnac.

Though each Cognac and Armagnac are grape brandies from adjoining areas, they differ considerably. In the present day, 99% of Cognac is produced from Ugni blanc grapes. Armagnac is made primarily from a mixture of Colombard, Folle blanche, Ugni blanc and Baco 22A.

The primary three grape varieties have been historically used for Cognac manufacturing within the nineteenth century. Ugni blanc was extra suitable with the American root shares used to fight Phylloxera, so producers opted to rely solely on Ugni blanc. In the present day, solely a handful of producers nonetheless domesticate Colombard or Folle blanche, amongst a number of permitted varieties, to provide Cognac.

Armagnac’s sandy soils have been much less impacted by Phylloxera. Conventional grape varieties, many nonetheless on their unique root shares, survived and proceed for use. As well as, Armagnac producers additionally use Baco 22A, a French-American hybrid created in 1898 by crossing Folle blanc with a local American selection known as Noah; a cross of Vitis labrusca and Vitis riparia. Different permitted grape varieties, though uncommon, embrace Clairette de Gascogne, Blanquette Grise, Mauzac Blanc, Mauzac Rose, White Jurançon and Meslier Saint-François.

Baco 22A, also called Baco blanc, is one among only a handful of hybrid grape varieties whose cultivation to provide spirts remains to be allowed underneath EU rules. Through the twentieth century, Baco was the principal grape selection used to make Armagnac.

The bottom wine of Armagnac is usually distilled on the high-quality lees. It is a frequent observe in Cognac; it’s utilized by main producers like Remy, Hine, Camus and Frapin.

Not like Cognac, which undergoes a double distillation in a Charentais-style pot nonetheless, Armagnac sometimes undergoes solely a single distillation in an Alembic Armagnac. It is a small, normally wooden or fuel fired, cellular, steady column nonetheless. The stills can have as much as 15 plates. Most producers use between 5 to eight plates and a few as little as three. Most distillation is by these cellular distillers. The stills carry names, permitting producers to request particular stills to do their distillation annually.

Using Charentais stills has been authorized in Armagnac since 1972. Solely a handful of producers use them, nonetheless. Janneau, one of many bigger Armagnac producers, makes use of each sorts of stills. Since double distilled brandy from a Charentais-type nonetheless ages sooner than brandy from a single column distillation, the 2 spirits are sometimes blended collectively.

Armagnac comes off the nonetheless at round 52% ABV. It’s casked on the identical power and sometimes bottled at between 40% and 48% ABV. Growing older is in 400-liter casks, normally produced from the native Gascon oak/Black oak. Any pedunculate or sessile oak species, or crosses of the 2, can be utilized for cooperage. The time period Gascon oak is commonly used for each. The native oak has extensive grains, particularly when it receives a medium to heavy toast, that imparts a darkish coloration to the spirit. Barrels produced from finer grain Limousin oak are additionally used.

The Armagnac area lies within the foothills of the Pyrenees, between the Adour and Garonne rivers. It’s divided into three districts: Bas-Armagnac, Armagnac-Tenareze and Haut-Armagnac. There are roughly 37,000 acres of vineyards throughout the three areas. The AOC, which governs the area, dates again to 1936. Armagnac was among the many first areas granted AOC standing by the French authorities.

Bas-Armagnac, roughly 57% of the manufacturing vineyards, is a area of rolling hills. Soils listed below are acidic, argillaceous and stony, and are sometimes marked with distinctive pink patches of oxidized iron.

Armagnac-Tenareze characterize about 40% of the manufacturing vineyards. Soils listed below are primarily limestone, sand and clay. These soils produce Armagnacs which might be strongly flavored and likewise slower to mature.

Haut-Armagnac is the most important of the three Armagnac producing districts, though it solely accommodates about 3% of the manufacturing vineyards. That is an space of chalky-clay hills and is characterised by soils excessive in limestone. Vineyards are usually scattered among the many limestone outcroppings that dot the area.

Armagnac shares with Cognac an identical classification scheme. Traditionally, the 2 weren’t aligned, however in recent times have adopted comparable parameters. VS refers to Armagnacs which were aged in oak casks for 2 to 3 years, whereas VSOP refers to Armagnac that has been aged for 4 to 5 years in oak casks. Observe that the minimal ageing requirement refers back to the youngest part of the mix. Each VS and VSOP Armagnacs can include spirit older than the minimal ageing interval.

Napoleon denotes Armagnac that has been aged for six to 9 years in oak casks and XO refers to Armagnac that has been aged for at the least 10 years. Hors d’Age, actually “ageless,” doesn’t carry a particular ageing interval however is normally utilized to brandies which were aged for 20 years or extra.

Given the heterogeneity of its soils, Armagnac presents a various array of aroma and style profiles. That is an intensely flavored spirit that always has a country character to it, particularly when younger. 

Youthful Armagnacs show notes of plum, prune and stone fruit, like apricot, in addition to seasoned oak and vegetative aromas. Because the Armagnac will get older, it will get smoother, dropping a few of its rustic character and turns into extra floral on the nostril. The fruit notes shift extra towards dried and candied fruit notes of date, orange, fig and prune. The vegetative notes turn into drier and extra natural. Very outdated Armagnac’s show the rancio traits of aged leather-based, furnishings wax and natural notes of dried tobacco leaf. They will additionally include some meaty/bacon aromas.

Unaged Armagnac, Blanche d’Armagnac, a brand new class legalized in 2007, could be very fragrant and fruity and is similar to Pisco.

Under are tasting notes on a number of Armagnacs which might be a superb cross part of what the area has to supply.

Château de Pellehaut, L’Age de Glace, VS, 41% ABV, 750 ml. Pellehaut is a Tenareze producer owned by the Beraut household—they hint their roots within the area again 4 centuries. They use Ugni blanc for brandies slated to be aged for 15 years or extra and Folle blanche to provide brandies bought at a youthful age.

L’Age de Glace (Ice Age) is a younger brandy meant to be drunk on the rocks, therefore the title. It is a smooth, spherical, fruity brandy that’s extraordinarily fragrant and which additionally provides up notes of vanilla, and a contact of rustic wooden. A fantastic aperitif or as a base for brandy-based cocktails.

Château de Laubade, XO, Bas Armagnac, 40% ABV, 750 ml provides up intense notes of orange peel/marmalade, peach, apricot, toasted bread, dried and recent herbs, and dried fruit, together with notes of cinnamon, chili pepper, different wooden spices and a contact of savoriness. It is a easy, full-bodied, mouth coating Armagnac blended from brandies 15 to 25 years outdated.

Dartigalongue, Bas Armagnac, Hors d’Age, 40% ABV, 750 ml is a robust, daring Armagnac that’s a number of a long time outdated. It provides up notes of creme caramel and vanilla, together with cooked apple and stone fruit, particularly apricot jam, golden raisin and prune. There are spice notes of cinnamon, cardamon, ginger, some nutmeg, a little bit of clove and cayenne pepper. There may be additionally a darkish chocolate be aware, accompanied by a touch of espresso and a contact of outdated leather-based.

Baron de Lustrac, Bas Armagnac, XO, 25 YO, 42.4% ABV, 750 ml is a 25 YO Armagnac obtainable within the US for underneath $90. It’s based mostly totally on Folle blanc grapes and bottled at cask power (Brut de Fut). Extremely concentrated, it provides up notes of floral potpourri, baked apple and pear, together with apricot jam, marmalade, and dried fruit notes of fig, date and a few mocha. There are spice notes of cinnamon and nutmeg, together with caramel and marzipan. There are extra earthy notes, that includes dried mushrooms, forest ground, together with a meaty, bacon fats aroma and a touch of salinity.

The Baron de Lustrac is extremely easy and satiny. Extraordinarily flavorful and sophisticated it represents an distinctive worth for an ultra-aged Armagnac.

Marie Duffau and Delord are the model names utilized by the Delord household for the Armagnacs they produce. A multi-generational producer that reaches again to the early twentieth century, the household operates a 75-acre winery within the coronary heart of the Bas-Armagnac area. Produced organically, with out chemical fertilizers or pesticides, the Armagnacs are produced from a mixture of 70% Ugni blanc, 20% Baco, 5% Colombard and 5% Folle blanche. A sluggish, low temperature distillation ensures {that a} larger proportion of fragrant compounds are retained within the spirit.

Marie Duffau, Napoleon, Bas Armagnac, 40% ABV, 750 ml provides up notes of dried fruit, particularly prune, darkish chocolate and brown sugar. It is a very floral Armagnac, with a contact of creamy sweetness that’s accompanied by notes of vanilla, well-seasoned wooden, some pound cake, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and a contact of pepper.

Marie Duffau, Bas Armagnac, Classic 1979, 30 YO, 43% ABV, 750 ml. Very fruity on the nostril with aromas of floral potpourri, stone and tropical fruits, together with candied orange zest, prune, milk chocolate and a little bit of walnut. Dense and concentrated with an apparent, mouth coating, palate weight and an preliminary pronounced pepperiness that fades rapidly into a gentle however lingering be aware.

There are extra flavors of recent baked pastry/croissant and cooked apple, suppose Tarte Tatin, together with notes of vanilla, well-seasoned oak and walnut. The end is exceptionally lengthy and flavorful with lingering dried fruit notes and a little bit of pepperiness.

Marquis de Montesquiou, Reserve Armagnac, 43% ABV, 750 ml is a completely beautiful Armagnac. If you’re a lover of high-quality brandies, you can find this Armagnac provides distinctive worth and excellent high quality. The Montesquiou household has deep roots in Gascony, courting again to the eleventh century, though they now not personal the model.

Its most well-known descendent is Pierre de Montesquiou d’Artagnan, a musketeer who served Louis XIV for greater than 40 years and was ultimately made a Marshall of France. French novelist Alexander Dumas used him as the idea of the like-named character in The Three Musketeers.

It is a advanced, strong layered brandy that gives up nuanced notes of candy, dried fruit, particularly prune, in addition to date, fig, tropical fruit and dried herbs, together with creamy butterscotch, orange zest and vanilla. There are spice notes of cinnamon, cloves, pepper, nutmeg and a little bit of cardamom. There are extra notes of roasted chestnut, candied walnut and a meaty, nearly bacon like, be aware within the background.

Château de Gaube, Bas Armagnac Darroze, 1972, 43.5% ABV, 750 ml. Francois Darroze is a negociant that is among the largest bottlers of Armagnac and makes a speciality of classic expressions. The 1972 Gaube was bottled in 2011 as a 39 YO expression. All of the Château’s Armagnacs are produced totally from the Baco grape. The Château is situated within the Perquie space of Landes in Bas-Armagnac.

It is a very fragrant Armagnac with notes of dried figs, plums, raisins, dried orange zest and prune, together with toasted nuts, caramel, cinnamon and chocolate. There’s a little bit of a vegetative be aware, suppose cooked inexperienced bean or cooked cabbage. This isn’t uncommon in Armagnac and is normally related to Colombard grapes. The larger the proportion of Colombard, the extra pronounced the vegetative notes normally are.

There are extra notes of furnishings wax and saddle leather-based typical of the rancio aromas of very outdated Armagnacs. The end is exceptionally lengthy, silky and really dry, with lingering notes of dried fruit, particularly citrus and hints of chocolate.

Château de Gaube, Bas Armagnac Darroze, 1966, 43.5% ABV, 750 ml was bottled in February 2021 as a 55 YO expression. At such a complicated age, the rancio notes, of prune, leather-based and furnishings wax are very pronounced. There are extra notes of milk chocolate, marmalade and dried apricot, together with some dried mushrooms and a touch of moist stone minerality. There’s a trace of sweetness that provides technique to an extended dry, however very easy end.

This Armagnac isn’t simple to seek out however a diligent search will typically show productive. It’s typically cheaper to purchase from a European mail order website than to purchase it within the US. It sometimes retails for between $300 and $500 for a 700 ml bottle, together with supply. That’s exceptional for a 50+ YO brandy. An equal Cognac would simply price 10 occasions as a lot.

Darroze has had a number of bottlings over the past decade so the bottle you discover could also be anyplace from 48 YO to 55 YO. From a sensible matter there’s not a lot distinction between a 48 YO and a 55 YO Armagnac, what variations there are can be very delicate. 

Domaine d’Esperance, 2003 Folle Blanche, Bas-Armagnac, 50% ABV, 750 ml is a classic, particular cask choice produced totally from Folle blanche grapes. The corporate has been run by members of the Montesquiou household since 1990.

Distilled in 2003 and bottled in 2016 as a 13 YO, the Armagnac provides up highly effective floral and fruity notes, together with honey, almond, hazelnut and anise/licorice. There are extra spice notes of cinnamon, cardamom, pepper and a few recent mint.

Domaine d’Esperance is a tiny property with solely about 20 acres of vineyards devoted to Armagnac manufacturing and using solely Folle blanc and Baco 22A grapes. Distillation takes about one week per 12 months and ends in round 3,000 liters of spirit. It’s obtainable within the US by importer PM Spirits however might be onerous to seek out exterior of New York.

Château de Lacquy produces a variety of classic and varietal particular expressions which might be bottled at cask power. These are sometimes single barrel bottlings. Manufacturing is proscribed to underneath 500 bottles per expression and the Armagnac might be onerous to seek out. The Château is owned by the Boisseson household, Armagnac producers for greater than 10 generations—that is the oldest family-owned producer in Armagnac.

The Château de Lacquy, 2007 Colombard, 48% ABV is a single barrel bottling made totally from Colombard grapes. There may be additionally a Château de Lacquy 2007 Folle blanche, 48% ABV. The expressions don’t carry an age assertion however are sometimes round 12 YO. They’re bottled at cask power. The Château’s bottlings supply a wonderful alternative to match classic variations in addition to the various aroma and style profile in Armagnacs produced from totally different grape varietals.

The Colombard expression, for instance, provides up an intense, advanced nostril of candied fruits, together with spice notes of pepper and cinnamon and pronounced vanilla notes. The Folle blanche expression, alternatively, is extra floral accompanied by notes of milk chocolate. Each expressions characteristic notes of recent tropical fruits.

Chateau Castarède, based in 1832, is the oldest of the Armagnac buying and selling homes. It features each as a producer and negociant. Castarède produces a broad vary of Armagnac’s, together with ultra-aged expressions greater than a half century outdated, in addition to classic expressions courting again to 1893. The corporate has been a constant medal winner in worldwide competitions.

Castarède, Bas Armagnac, XO, 10 YO, 40% ABV, 750 ml is a daring, creamy and highly effective Armagnac with distinctive notes of dried and candied fruits, together with spice aromas of cinnamon, pepper and nutmeg round a core of caramel and toasted oak. There are floral notes of potpourri plus hints of sandalwood incense, together with mocha notes of cocoa and low. Although solely 10 YO, it additionally provides up hints of basic rancio aromas of leather-based and furnishings wax. A basic Armagnac expression that gives one of the best the spirit can supply.

See additionally Château Arton, an Armagnac producer in Haut-Armagnac. There aren’t very many producers in Haut-Armagnac. Arton bottles classic expressions in addition to a 6 YO mix. This has a basic Armagnac nostril, with notes of dried and candied fruit, orange zest, together with floral aromas, some licorice, some inexperienced vegetative notes and a pronounced pepperiness.

There are fairly a couple of Armagnac producers now bottling Blanche D’Armagnac. That is unaged spirit, what within the distilling trade is termed “newmake.” This spirit is extraordinarily fragrant with pronounced floral and fruity, particularly grapy, notes, together with some inexperienced vegetative aromas. Stylistically it is vitally paying homage to Pisco and is also mistaken for a rum Agricole, though it’s nowhere close to as pungent or as vegetative.

Armagnac is actually an distinctive brandy that gives up a fancy and layered fruit ahead profile. It’s aged expression, particularly its ultra-aged expression, characterize distinctive values, notably when in comparison with equally aged expressions from its Cognac cousins.

It’s a spirit that’s not well-known within the US. That’s a pity. When you like brandy, particularly the type of aged expressions that you may wrap your self round in entrance of a hearth, you actually owe it to your self to find this exceptional spirit. The truth that it’s extremely nicely priced and provides distinctive worth doesn’t damage both.

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