Colorist and non-toxic smoothing remedy specialist Tania Whittier operates out of Los Angeles’ famed Meche salon, when she’s not touring the globe smoothing or balayaging the tresses of celebs on-set. Now a veteran in non-toxic coloration and hair smoothers, she has change into one of the sought-after consultants to clean and coloration hair with out harsh chemical compounds.
Right here she shares how hair smoothing merchandise have advanced, how she makes use of them and what to look out for should you’re interested in exploring non-toxic, hair-smoothing remedies.
What’s a Brazilian Blowout, or an analogous conventional smoothing remedy? What do they do?
The older, conventional smoothing remedies like Brazilian Blowout would combine keratin and formaldehyde to offer the phantasm of shine. The mix of those substances can be utilized onto clear, dried hair, after which blow dried and flat ironed into the hair. The excessive warmth would combine the substances collectively and create a coating on the skin of the hair.
Finally the keratin would fade away however that formaldehyde didn’t, it stayed within the hair like glue. Then you definately would do it once more and that’s after we all began to note folks strolling round with these unhealthy straight ends and curly roots. Identical to your nail polish begins chipping earlier than it dulls, that’s what occurs with the hair.
When folks use these remedies a number of instances, the hair begins wanting like straw. The primary time they get the remedy it seems wonderful. However, as time goes on, you can begin to see ends that appear to be they’re about to interrupt off – the feel shifts. That’s what occurs while you’re overlapping the formaldehyde in a number of remedies.
What’s a ‘non-toxic’ smoothing remedy?
To ensure that a remedy to be non-toxic, the smoothing product must be neutralized earlier than you begin smoothing, and also you don’t use poisonous formaldehyde. There are various totally different “energetic substances” or chemical compounds utilized in unhazardous remedies. They are often glycolic acid or glycol carbocysteine.
Some unhazardous remedies can now be personalized, so that you don’t should have that prime distinction develop out. I imagine all remedies fade some from the weather like solar, water and even shampooing however that’s okay as a result of while you really feel that you just’re prepared for an additional remedy you possibly can regulate your formulation to solely give your hair what it wants, this can maintain it wanting as wholesome as doable.
Quite a lot of corporations are making these now, even the unique Brazilian Blowout now has a clear remedy referred to as Leaf and Flower which lasts about 10 washes. There are many boutique corporations which are popping out with clear merchandise. They embrace Pura Luxe, Cezanne, Pure Brazilian, Oxo Organic. These remedies have been round for round eight years now.
How did you come to start out utilizing the brand new clear model and had you beforehand been utilizing the standard model?
A star consumer of mine had examine Cezanne, which was the primary non-toxic smoothing remedy on the market, at the very least the primary one I had examine. I began working with the corporate to find out about what makes it non-toxic.
Quite a lot of these corporations don’t use formaldehyde, however there are a number of different chemical compounds which are being put into totally different formulation. Everybody has their very own formulation. None of those chemical compounds are good for you precisely, but when they’re getting used correctly then they change into non-toxic and safer. If you’re rinsing out your product earlier than you start smoothing, water neutralizes the chemical.
How do you apply it?
You apply the product and permit it to course of into the hair. The remedy opens up the cuticle, permitting the amino acids to enter the cortex of the hair. Then, as soon as processed, it’s rinsed out of the hair. If you rinse every little thing out it not solely removes any product that didn’t make it into the cortex however you might be additionally neutralizing the remedy making a unhazardous setting.
After drying, the hair ought to really feel similar to hair – not like there may be product in it. Then I am going by the hair with a flatiron and that is what closes the cuticle so now while you’re achieved you possibly can wash your hair, get your coloration achieved if it’s pale or simply merely put it in a ponytail and get on together with your life!
By way of efficacy is there a distinction between conventional remedies and non-toxic ones?
A standard remedy is one-size matches all. One bottle of product for everybody’s head of hair. I’ve used a number of poisonous remedies through the years. What I’ve discovered with non-toxic is that totally different merchandise work higher with totally different hair varieties. Somebody with finer hair may be greatest paired with a distinct firm versus somebody with heavy, coarse hair. Having the variability has been very nice for me.
It additionally relies on what the consumer is searching for. Most individuals don’t need stick-straight hair anymore. Session is vital – having the ability to see what a consumer likes and what they don’t. Seeing what their hair is doing, too, is vital. The non-toxic merchandise give me extra versatility. I’ve 4 totally different remedies in my arsenal which are my go-tos. What I exploit relies on the kind and texture of the hair, and what the consumer is searching for. Most individuals proper now need to eliminate their frizz however maintain their physique. Their hair could be a little bit skinnier as a result of the frizz is gone however they need it to nonetheless be capable to take a curl. They need it to look higher than it did earlier than once they air-dry and have the flexibility to blow dry sooner. Almost everyone desires this versatility now.
Can folks use these remedies at dwelling or is that this a salon-only remedy?
A few of these remedies have at-home merchandise, the suggestions that I’ve gotten is that they don’t work as properly. It’s probably depending on hair kind and texture. For the longest-lasting remedy, you need to go right into a salon. Particularly in case you are color-treated. When you’re actually blonde and throwing an at-home remedy on it, you would find yourself doing harm. When you’re going to make the funding, it’s greatest to do it in a salon. It’s costlier to get it fastened than it’s to do it professionally.
How did you develop your private technique to toxin-free smoothing?
After I began working with Pura Luxe, there weren’t particular directions on amount or processing instances. And when that product launched, it was supposed to create stick-straight hair.
I like that you’ve got the choice to do it that manner, however whereas my purchasers have been trying to reduce frizz and soften curl, they didn’t need to lose their hair’s physique. I simply began taking notes and adjusting issues based mostly on consumer suggestions. I stored diligent notes on what we did and on a second go to from a consumer I’d know if we would have liked to regulate the timing or the formulation or use totally different irons or sectioning to create what they needed to attain. The repetition and my technique helped me determine it out and make purchasers actually completely happy.
Is that this simply an LA factor/the place else can folks get these?
You will get non-toxic remedies achieved wherever. It’s simpler to discover a typical one, however if you wish to get non-toxic then I’d counsel wanting up non-toxic smoothing remedies on Instagram and any of the product corporations you discover will usually counsel salon companions close to you. The entire manner ahead for locating non-toxic remedies extra simply is purchasers asking for it for his or her well being and the well being of their hairdresser.
What ought to somebody ask for once they do discover a salon providing non-toxic smoothing? And the way can they know if their hairdresser is taking a personalized strategy?
You may at all times go in for a session and get a sense for the individual. Ask them the way it’s achieved. Ask them if they’re rinsing the hair and in the event that they aren’t rinsing the remedy out, then it’s not non-toxic. You can even ask if they will customise their remedy. They’ll let you know what they will do as soon as they see your hair. Pictures are nice, too. I inform my purchasers to come back in with clear, air-dried hair so I can greatest know methods to handle it.