Moscow doesn’t imagine in trash. This might simply have been a provocative slogan for the latest version of Mercedes-Benz Style Week Russia paraphrasing the legendary title of the Academy Award profitable Soviet movie Moscow Doesn’t Believe in Tears. The organizers have been quietly pushing the business established order on sustainability and interculturalism for years. #MBFWRussia was among the many first to ban fur, embrace stay streaming, champion modest style, and prioritize rising expertise. With strategic assist from Russian Fashion Council and Style Fund, the seasonal occasion grew into the biggest and most impactful style platform in Japanese Europe. This season post-pandemic vulnerabilities necessitated a short lived cutting down. The reveals passed off on the Museum of Moscow as a substitute of the large Manege pavilion simply exterior the Kremlin. The change enabled a radical re-alignment of the mission to the larger sustainable objectives.
Massive modifications manifest themselves in small issues. For instance, #MBFWRussia has discontinued its long-established follow of custom-made designer T-shirts work by the volunteers and workers onsite. This time, upcycling specialists ‘Rishi created 200 uniform shirts for the whole occasion staff utilizing second-hand clothes. This concept dominated the narrative and the vibe of the season with maybe its most memorable spotlight being an unlikely collaboration between rising expertise and one of many nation’s largest rubbish collectors. You learn that proper! This fall, Russian Style Council and EcoLine Group, Moscow’s prime waste remedy operator, had partnered with the charitable Vtoroe Dykhanie Fund to rework donated second-hand clothes. The discarded clothes collected by the Fund within the spring got to designers at RigRaiser and VINA for upcycling. This sustainable style concept helps two necessary tendencies – educating about present recycling applied sciences/practices and acutely aware consumption. The important thing message of the challenge was that pointless clothes, donated to charity, might be the idea for actual designer runway collections. A superb motive to have a look at your wardrobe as soon as extra earlier than throwing it away.
Based on the government-backed Russian Ecological Operator, clothes and footwear at the moment represent 25-30% of landfill mass: Russia has seen a 15% improve in textile waste because the early levels of the pandemic. Nonetheless, Russia is experiencing a rising reputation of upcycling style. Moscow’s shopaholics begin to spend on branded upcycled items, and the native style week powers the development, including extra sustainable designers to the schedule.
The ultimate outcomes had been the discuss of the season. RigRaiser’s philosophy – “model as a form, consciousness as a manner, artwork as a mission” – made for an interesting assortment of seems to be working the gamut of aesthetics from workplace informal to nightlife provocateur. In the meantime, VINA wowed the audiences with its good patchwork and modern tailoring. “Our collaboration with Mercedes-Benz Style Week Russia is a manner of presenting an affordable and artistic method to the usage of undesirable clothes, and it may additionally assist with making gradual style a brand new development. If we had a sustainable clothes assortment and recycling sector, it may considerably contribute to waste discount and assist with the ecological state of affairs. Minimizing landfill waste and recycling are among the many key strategic nationwide priorities,” mentioned Evgeny Mikhailov, Chairman of the Board of Administrators, EcoLine Group. “We’re delighted that these concepts are spotlighted at Russia’s largest style occasion. It covers a really passionate viewers”, provides Oksana Bachina, content material director for EcoLine.
Elsewhere on the runway, there have been a couple of crucial standouts. Brothers Roman and Alexander Kim launched their streetstyle label Innominate with a watch in the direction of exploring the spectrum between masculinity and femininity, darkness and lightweight, and different counter-balanced ideas. The younger model is one in all fourteen Russia Fashion Fund grant winners. Lively since 1996, Sergey Sysoev is without doubt one of the extra established names in Russian fashionscape. He was impressed by the pure, painted and marble flowers within the historic aristocratic countryside retreats scattered all through the Moscow area. In the meantime, St. Petersburg’s finest stored secret ZA ZA by designer Alexandra Koryakina-Nikolayeva showcased one of many extra structurally fascinating collections crafted to resemble flowers stretching in the direction of the solar to bloom. Stylist turned style entrepreneur Alexandr Rogov happy his loyal following with a “see now, purchase now” assortment that was his most sensible in years, but lacked in pleasure. N Legenda marked their fifth 12 months at #MBFWRussia with a monochrome ode to “androgyny and omnitude.” Seemingly regardless of itself, Moscow seems to be evolving in its attitudes in the direction of a extra fluid gender expression.
Shades of inexperienced are the brand new tricolor in the case of expressing nationwide delight. “A rising variety of designers participating in MBFW Russia assist sustainable improvement tips. The Style Week is working in the direction of the closed cycle as a lot as it’s at the moment potential. We systematically assist digital style, having deserted merch manufacturing and dealing on the occasion’s carbon footprint discount usually. The Russian Style Council intends to introduce sustainable practices not solely on the Style Week, however past it, too,” mentioned Alexander Shumsky, President of Russian Fashion Council and Mercedes-Benz Style Week Russia.
With Russia being one of many few notable absentees from #COP26, the United Nations local weather change convention in Glasgow this month, it’s value acknowledging that cultural initiatives typically have the facility to convey necessary messages in any other case misplaced within the media shuffle of handy soundbites. The continued management of Mercedes-Benz Style Week Russia on sustainability throughout the style business constitutes one other nice instance of style diplomacy at its finest.