Final week, on a dark typical parisian day, CHANEL unveiled its twentieth Métiers d’Artwork Assortment at le 19M, the brand new constructing which celebrates the virtuoso palms of style.
The annual present is historically introduced in December and the gathering arrives in the boutique in Might. “Final 12 months’s assortment streamed on-line, held at Chateau de Chenonceau, was one of the profitable ” mentioned Bruno Pavlovski, President of CHANEL’s Style Actions in a masterclass which 200 college students attended the day after the present. “We by no means stopped speaking to our clients throughout the final two years which have been significantly tough, we tried to get them concerned in our undertaking and our new assortment and it has labored” he added.
Designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti -who signed the gorgeous Mucem in Marseille- Le 19M makes reference to Coco Chanel’s birthdate, 19 august 1883, and to the nineteenth arrondissement the place triangular 25,500 sq. meter modern constructing is situated. M is for Métiers d’arts or for the “petites mains”. “This constructing is a tribute to Chanel’s craftsmanship, it’s designed for the glory of the individuals who work for Chanel” mentioned the architect throughout an interview final summer time. Le 19M, house to 600 artisans, embroiderers, feather staff, paruriers, goldsmiths, pleaters, shoemakers, hatters, milliners, glove makers, tanners, leatherworkers has been imagined as a 24 meter excessive constructing sewn with braided threads of concrete. The female creative signature of Rudy Ricciotti completely merges into Chanel’s aesthetics. A real symbiosis. The walkways echo the city forest that has been planted immediately on the soil. In the course of the courtyard, a a veiled message: an enormous camellia. The brand new constructing brings the Porte d’Aubervilliers, in the northeast of Paris, the new stunning panorama and dynamic office that have been lacking to dynamize this space of Paris.
Editors, clients and VIPs have been invited to find the workshop earlier than the reveals. Visitors have been cut up into completely different teams led by celebrities or ambassadors of the home like Pharrell Williams or Sofia Coppola and fashions sporting appears from the gathering. Whereas strolling in Atelier Montex, actress Ana Maria Vartolomei and mannequin Lola Nicon launched passionate younger embroiderers who have been stitching silver floral pangles on black velvet panels that will adorn the enduring bag. “This constructing embodies the way forward for the métiers d’arts” mentioned Bruno Pavlovksi.
Right here, the outdated era transmits their love and “savoir faire” to the brand new one to protect the historic French tradition. Within the workshops, younger folks of their 20s and 30s work not solely with conventional methods but additionally in 3D printing and designs.
Embroiderers Atelier Montex or Lesage, goldsmith Goosens, shoemaker Massaro or milliner Maison Michel and the flou specialist Paloma are among the many 11 métiers d’arts – on a complete of 40- which were introduced to le 19M this 12 months. These distinctive craftsmen are in direct contact with Chanel creation studio. However not solely: le 19M can also be the artistic hub for the opposite style homes.
It’s Gabrielle Chanel who initiated the fruitful dialog between Chanel and the Métiers d’Arts as she was already working with Massaro, Lemaire and Goosens. Then, within the early Nineteen Eighties, Chanel began to amass these métiers -bought through The Paraffection subsidiary- to make sure their sturdiness, permit artistic analysis, assist their improvement and practice new artisans. The Chanel métiers d’artwork present is the heritage of Karl Lagerfeld who determined in 2002 to current his first present to perpetuate and honor the unusual craft experience of those artisans.
For the 2oth Métiers d’artwork assortment, Artistic Director Virginie Viard brings collectively the road and luxurious kinds. Within the present word, she describes the gathering as “very metropolitan but subtle, with tweed jackets with sweatshirt sleeves, graffiti-style embroidery in coloured beads by Lesage, voluminous purple or royal blue knit bermuda short-outfits, and informal coats worn open”.
On the appears, particulars evoke the architectural facade of le 19M, like these on the lengthy black coat accented by vivid jeweled buttons and sequined patch pockets that opened the present.
A waistcoat beneath a knitted cardigan whose colours recall the autumn gentle reflecting within the constructing. Virginie Viard performed with sizes and proportions. A multicolored checked ensemble is worn beneath a cape coat in fringed tweed.
There are after all double C logos like on a burgundy cashmere cardigan embroidered with a silver tinsel. Golden jewellery is worn in accumulation or two-tone cabochon stands alone. There are appears for everybody from younger clients to extra conventional ones.
Make up artists painted fashions’ eyes in exaggerated rock n’roll black liner balancing the peach tone of the lips and cheeks. Evoking the dramatic spirit of the present. A mirror of the coolness of the gathering.
Forward of the present, the invitation field included a set of texts by writers and rappers recounting their imaginative and prescient of the maison d’arts. Dimitri Chambas choreographed the movie introduced earlier than the present. For this preview -as the official opening can be subsequent year- Chanel, creator of goals, provided a true celebration of its distinctive savoir faire.