The French Maison of Chaumet, whose first nice consumer was Empress Joséphine, spouse of Napoléon Bonaparte, reinterprets a longstanding home motif: the twist, impressed by the scrolls of the frieze encircling the column of Place Vendome, the place it was the primary jeweler to open in 1812. The last word expression of lightness and the motion of life, the colourful Torsade de Chaumet assortment suspends movement and captures a second in time by means of spirals and swirls of gold and stones. I sit down with Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO of Chaumet, to be taught extra in regards to the Chaumet twist.
What are luxurious customers at the moment looking for?
It’s tough to reply your query categorically and to be very affirmative. The sensation we’ve is that prospects are in all probability trying much more than earlier than for items that embody a sure eternity and funding worth, therefore in all probability the better consideration to diamonds and valuable stones. On this respect, the large manufacturers which have a terrific historical past and legitimacy are much more necessary, manufacturers like Chaumet, which is over 240 years previous. On the similar time, we perceive that prospects wish to mix these values with a sure creativity. For us, that is precisely what the proposal of the Torsade assortment represents.
Have design and creativity turn out to be extra necessary as of late versus simply very valuable uncommon stones?
For us at Chaumet, it has at all times been the case: a great stability between the wonder and the need to boost this present from earth – that are “stones” – but additionally to create and produce different dimensions. We don’t promote solely stones. We suggest a creative dimension and we provide a creativity and a method in an effort to make very distinctive and totally different items.
What’s the principal storytelling angle of the Torsade de Chaumet excessive jewellery assortment, and the way do you translate this theme into items of up to date jewellery?
Conceptually, a metaphor of the passing of time, a real mixture of motion and emotion, and an ode to dynamism to precise how life evolves and progresses with this residing “torsade” by no means the identical, captured in randomness, like an infinite line. From the virtuosity perspective, as soon as once more, a technique to categorical how the Chaumet type is about capturing a second, like a second in suspension, by no means heavy, at all times searching for lightness.
Aside from the overarching “twist” theme, are there different themes that unite the items?
We imagine that the will at the moment is to present parts of reassurance, to play on extra traditional codes, however at all times with the Chaumet twist. Two examples for instance this level: the selection of stones, solely between diamonds and valuable stones, and in addition a “négligé” necklace, a terrific traditional of excessive jewellery and particularly at Chaumet (we bear in mind this legendary creation for the Maharajah of Indore), however with the little sidestep that at all times distinguishes Chaumet and in addition a technique to reveal the virtuosity of our Maison.
Which excessive jewellery merchandise are the highlights?
After all, the tiara is likely one of the highlights, as it’s clearly the logo of Chaumet. We at all times attempt to illustrate every of our themes by means of tiaras to perpetuate the infinite creativity of Chaumet, from yesterday to at the moment. What’s outstanding is the way in which the intertwining “torsades” spotlight a dialogue between brilliant-cut diamonds and rose-cut diamonds. This alternation of cuts provides rhythm, radiance and depth to the tiara. True to Chaumet’s twist on excessive jewellery classics, the rose-cut diamonds are set with inverted culets, creating an interaction of sunshine and reliefs. Its twists are random of their motion, however the creation stays balanced. Diamonds give the impression of suspension, paying homage to droplets of water. You’re feeling notably on this piece the motion, the dynamic, the second captured.
What have been the primary challenges in making this assortment?
Aside from the rediscovery of various methods of setting stones, notably diamonds in an effort to illustrate much more this ode to dynamism, the work has been to translate a way of motion and suspension, usually revolving round a central core. Torsade is a technique to categorical as soon as once more virtuosity on the service of storytelling. Typically tied or untied, graphic or elongated, the Torsade reveals gravity-defying volumes all through its creations.