A. Roege Hove spring/summer season 2021 present in Copenhagen, Denmark
Nicolaj Reffstrup doesn’t care about labelling vogue as a sustainable enterprise. The Danish native who co-founded the breakout model of the 2010s Ganni together with his spouse, the model’s Inventive Director Ditte, are answerable for placing Danish vogue on the map as ahead considering, personality-driven, and sustainable-aiming. “We’ve got at all times felt very supported by Copenhagen, we’re a part of a group right here”, he says.
The opposite important participant to show Danish model as a key vogue vacation spot is Copenhagen Fashion Week, which simply held it’s Spring/Summer time 2022 season within the capital metropolis. Headed up by sustainability advocate Cecilie Thorsmark, since launching in 2006, every season has positioned town as one that doesn’t solely apply it’s green-aiming strategies to automobiles and CO2 emissions, however vogue too.
Not like different vogue establishments who’ve inexperienced washed their advertising campaigns but factored in little or no inner structural change, Copenhagen’s vogue business try to create actual lasting impression inside the vogue business. This 12 months, it was themed round sustainability, which as Nicolaj famous, “is a really bold intention for vogue”, and it’s this honesty about how troublesome it’s for vogue to turn out to be sustainable that marks town’s ambitions as real.
In the course of the SS22 season, sustainability was offered as greater than a PR-friendly development, however as an alternative, one thing that underpins Danish vogue in assorted methods, from the usage of useless inventory and recycled materials at rising model (Di)vsion, to the creation of textiles produced from previous cork at Nikolaj Storm and a dedication round vogue at Ganni.
“Chopping CO2 emissions can solely be accomplished in Partnerships” Thorsmark mentioned earlier than the inaugural present started, as she introduced partnerships with vogue and tradition establishments in Norway together with the Norwegian Fashion Hub and Oslo Fusion Festival, to fight vogue’s sustainability downside.
That is additionally metropolis impressed by itself. In tribute to nearly all of ladies who journey round work on bikes, Ganni’s inventive director Ditte has designed her SS22 assortment to be bike pleasant, as has Cecilie Bahnsen, who will add gathered hems to her trademark extremely femme clothes and fits in order that they don’t get caught in bikes,” mentioned Ditte. “We’ve got had a lot assist from the Copenhagen inventive group and I’m at all times impressed by the way in which the ladies transfer across the metropolis, it’s very inexperienced. I don’t actually have a drivers license”, she mentioned, “I couldn’t think about doing this anyplace else.”.
Sustainability is in Danish Trend’s DNA
Divison’s recycled spring/summer season 2021 present, Copenhagen, Denmark
Throughout the season was the follow of revolutionary sustainable textile manufacturing strategies. By Malene Birger is likely one of the most storied manufacturers of Copenhagen ― talking after their presentation, the model’s inventive director spoke about their Made In initiative, a brand new line during which 51% or over of the fabric is recycled. Winner of the Zalando sustainability award, Nikolaj Storm’s techno themed tea get together showcased a set made fully with useless inventory materials and a brand new material produced from cork. For Oslo-based model Holzweiler, transparency over the availability chain is vital: “We’ve got simply invested in a brand new system to gather knowledge on all our suppliers, from the uncooked materials to the completed garment” say Susanne and Andreas Holzweiler ― “Transparency on how we work to turn out to be higher is a key focus, so we are going to share this data on our digital platforms”.
Intercourse is Again
Copenhagen vogue is understood for it’s supersized floral prints, Nike trainers and outsized clothes, however a brand new crop of manufacturers launched a intercourse optimistic be aware to the schedule, A. ROEGE HOVE confirmed sheer pink and black mini clothes to cater for the double vaccinated crowd. Saks Potts, who launched sultry holographic bodysuits which can be worn season after season have been beloved by Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian and Hailey Beiber. This season was no totally different, with knot entrance pores and skin baring crop tops in fuschia pink.
Saks Potts spring/summer season 2022 present at Arne Jacobsen Home
Fur Ban on the Catwalk
The Copenhagen model Saks Potts rose to vogue fame with their belted coats completed in fox fur, however because the model strikes on into the subsequent stage of their identification, they’ve “determined to not work with animal fur”. Talking after their present held on the former house of Arne Jacobsen on the outskirts of Copenhagen, Barbara Potts defined how the model had been shifting into a brand new period, “tapping right into a recent and totally different viewers that we’ve right here in Copenhagen.”.
Phygital ― Denmark’s Zero-Emission Drive for 2030 has Impacted Trend
Not like earlier seasons the place Danish manufacturers had hosted costly runway exhibits which editors and consumers had flown to from internationally, this 12 months many manufacturers together with Marimekko, Hope and Rodebjar select go phygital, streaming their exhibits on-line. In an intention to contribute to the offset the carbon footprint of the style business, Cecilie Bahensn determined to ask folks into her atelier in a leafy district of Copenhagen.
Ganni spring/summer season 2022 present in Copenhagen, Denmark
Copenhagen Trend Has Grown Up
“There are altering priorities after Covid” Nicolaj Reffstrup mentioned, talking after Ganni’s SS22 present, “enterprise priorities have modified to mirror the accountability we really feel to really intention for a sustainable enterprise.”. Ganni will contribute one p.c of their income to sustainability initiatives shifting ahead and are encouraging consumers to rewear their designs regardless of the season via a collaboration with Vestiare Collective. Mannequin Bella Hadid has already been a champion of this, carrying the AW20 biker boots all through 2021. One other mainstay Copenhagen model, Barbara Potts and Catherine Saks each spoke about Saks Potts shifting right into a extra mature course that’s not so obsessive about the seasonal vogue schedule. “It’s a complete wardrobe now” Potts mentioned, “there’s an amazing shirt, trousers, separates, and we’ve labored with the Manolo Blahnik archive to promote classic footwear.”.